Event Details
A Donkey Race in Italy's Most Extraordinary Village
On Sunday, 13 September 2026, the ancient Piazza San Donato of Civita di Bagnoregio becomes an arena for one of Lazio's most extraordinary traditional events. The Palio della Tonna pits jockeys from the village's four contrade (neighbourhood districts) against each other in a bareback donkey race, competing for the coveted painted Palio banner. The event is held annually on the second Sunday of September, as part of the celebrations honouring the SS. Crocifisso.
Civita di Bagnoregio, nicknamed "La Città che Muore" (the Dying Town), is one of Italy's most remarkable medieval villages. Perched dramatically atop an eroding volcanic tufa cliff in the Valle dei Calanchi in the province of Viterbo, it is accessible only by a long pedestrian footbridge. The village is a UNESCO candidate site.
History of the Palio della Tonna
The name "Tonna" derives from the local dialect and means "round", referring to the circular shape of Piazza San Donato where the race takes place. The tradition reflects a deep historical bond between the villagers and their donkeys: the donkey was once the only means of transport capable of climbing the steep, unpaved paths up to the hilltop settlement. The Palio is a living tribute to this relationship.
The race is held twice a year: on the first Sunday in June (in honour of the Madonna Liberatrice) and on the second Sunday in September (in honour of the SS. Crocifisso).
Format and Rules
Each jockey must complete three full laps of the piazza bareback. Because the square is so narrow, only two donkeys can race simultaneously. The competition follows a knockout format, with the best performers advancing to the final. The winning contrada claims a hand-painted banner and a year's worth of local bragging rights. The event is as good-natured as it is competitive: the donkeys invariably do as they please, stopping to graze or kick unexpectedly, and this unpredictability is very much part of the charm.
Highlights
- Historical procession of the four contrade before the race begins
- Donkey race in knockout format around Piazza San Donato
- Passionate cheering from villagers and visitors alike
- Medieval backdrop with the Church of Santa Maria in the foreground
- Family-friendly atmosphere with authentic local character
- Spectacular panoramic views over the Valle dei Calanchi from the footbridge
Tickets and Entry
Entry to Civita di Bagnoregio requires a paid entrance ticket of €5 per person, available at the ticket office near the footbridge or online at the official website. Purchasing online is recommended to avoid queues. Once inside the village, watching the Palio race itself is free. Payment is also possible via the free official app "Civita di Bagnoregio".
Visitor Tips
- Arrive in the early afternoon; the footbridge and Piazza San Donato fill up quickly on Palio day.
- The race traditionally starts around 4:00 PM; the processions beforehand are worth arriving early for.
- Drive to Bagnoregio and leave your car in the paid car park; Civita itself is car-free.
- The crossing to Civita is on foot only; wear comfortable, sturdy shoes.
- Book accommodation in Bagnoregio or nearby towns as early as possible; capacity is very limited.
- Public transport is restricted on Sundays; arriving by car is strongly recommended.
- Civita is located approximately 120 km north of Rome, making it an ideal day trip from the capital.
